I-EU ihola indlela yokulawula ukusimama kodwa ingabe umhlaba wonke uzosebenzisa imithetho efanayo noma ingabe abakhiqizi bezingubo zomhlaba wonke kuzodingeka banqobe izimfuneko ezingahlangani ngokwezifunda esikhathini esizayo? I-Just Style iyaphenya.
I-Europe ingumholi wephakethe uma kuziwa ekusunguleni nasekusebenziseni umthethonqubo osimeme embonini yezingubo futhi isebenza kunoma ubani ofisa ukuthenga noma ukuthengisa imikhiqizo ngaphakathi kwe-European Union (EU).
Umqondisi jikelele we-Euratex u-Dirk Vantyghem uthi manje sekunezingcezu zomthetho ezingu-16, kodwa uthi ingxenye enkulu yendida i-Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR), ephoqelela bonke abahlinzeki ukuthi bakhiqize imikhiqizo yekhwalithi ephezulu mayelana nokuqina nokusimama.
Uchaza ukuthi lo mthetho wamukelwa ezinyangeni ezimbalwa ezedlule futhi uhunyushwa njengezingubo kanye nezindwangu ngezingxoxo eziqhubekayo njengamanje zokuthi i-tshirt kufanele iwashwe kangaki ngaphambi kokuba ilahlekelwe izici zayo.
I-EU iphinde yethula ama-Digital Product Passports (DPP), okusho imininingwane yomkhiqizo enemininingwane ehlanganisa ukuthi yenziwa kanjani nokuthi izoxhunywa kuphi kuyo yonke ingubo.
"Kuphoqa lonke uchungechunge lokunikezela ngedatha ukwabelana ngedatha nokwenza idatha ifane," kuphawula uVantyghem.
I-EU izimisele futhi ukubhekana nenkinga kadoti womkhakha wezimpahla zokugqoka lapho uVantyghem engeza ngokuthi: “Kuzonqunywa maduze nje ukuthi kuzoqalwa uhlelo Lokubophezeleka Komkhiqizi Owengeziwe (EPR) futhi sibheka ukuthi luzobandakanya kanjani imboni yendwangu.”
Futhi, yethula umthetho wokukhuthala okufanele, obeka umthwalo wemfanelo owengeziwe kumabhrendi nabakhiqizi ukuthi bathobelane nemithetho yezenhlalo kanye nezindinganiso zemvelo kulo lonke uchungechunge lokunikezela ngemiphumela yalabo abangakwenzi lokho.
UVantyghem uyaphawula: “Indawo ngokomthetho we-EU ishintsha kakhulu futhi isiqhubezela ekusimameni okwengeziwe nasekukhanyeni okwengeziwe kanye nekhwalithi ephezulu.”
Ingabe amanye amazwe alandela ukuhola kwe-EU ekulawuleni okusimeme?
Inselelo yabakhiqizi bezimpahla zomhlaba wonke ukuthi i-EU kungenzeka ukuthi izihola phambili kodwa amanye amazwe nezifunda azilandeli imithetho efanayo - zizenzela eyazo.
Enye inzuzo yokumiswa kwe-EU ukuthi wonke amazwe angamalungu angama-27 ngaphakathi kwemakethe yawo eyodwa avuma ukulandela imithethonqubo efanayo, nokho, emazweni angawodwana e-US asungula ezawo izingxenye zomthetho osimeme.
I-California ne-New York yizifundazwe okufanele zibukwe nomongameli we-American Apparel & Footwear Association kanye ne-CEO u-Steve Lamar egqamisa umthetho ozosebenza kulezi zindawo ngokushesha kakhulu kunasezingeni likazwelonke noma likazwelonke.
Iseluleko sakhe kubaphathi nabahlinzeki bezemfashini ukuthi bafunde nge-geography yase-US njengoba kungenzeka ukuthi ukulawulwa kuzoqhubeka ukwenzeka ikakhulukazi ezingeni likahulumeni.
Njengoba sekuwunyaka wokhetho e-US uyanezela: “Kuzoba nezinye iziphakamiso kodwa izintela zangonyaka ozayo zizoba umzamo wokuqala wamabhizinisi ase-US”.
Okuhle kakhulu, uthi: “Eminyakeni eyishumi kusukela manje sizobheka emuva futhi sithole ukuthi lesi kwaba yisikhathi lapho umkhakha wethu waba osobala kakhulu futhi olandelekayo.”
Ezingeni likahulumeni noma izwe i-US inoMthetho Wokuvimbela Umsebenzi Ophoqelelwe Wase-Uyghur (UFLPA), ogxile ekusebenzeni ngempoqo.
Ayinayo i-DPP kodwa inamalungu athile engqungquthela asebenza ngokulingana ngokuzithandela futhi iCalifornia isanda kuphasisa umthetho wayo wokuqala wokuqoqa imfucuza, kodwa uLamar uyashesha ukwengeza: “Umthethosivivinywa wokuqoqwa - hhayi umthethosivivinywa wokugaywa kabusha”.
Ukukhishwa kwegesi ebamba ukushisa kungenye indawo enomsebenzi omningi, kodwa futhi kuzokwenzeka eCalifornia maduze kakhulu kunase-US yonkana.
U-Lamar uyachaza: “Kuneminye imizamo yokwenza ukubika njengoba imikhiqizo ingena emngceleni futhi enye yezindawo esinethemba ngayo ukwenza isiqiniseko sokuthi izimakethe eziku-inthanethi nezangaphandle, ezithengisa imikhiqizo yabanye, zizobhekana nalokho ezikuthengisayo.”
IJapan ingesinye isibonelo sezwe elizihambela ngokwalo uma kuziwa ekusimameni. Igxile ekungathathi hlangothi kwekhabhoni ngo-2050 futhi uhulumeni unemihlahlandlela yokuziphatha kahle kwebhizinisi ukuvikela amalungelo abantu ezimbonini zakhe, okubandakanya izindwangu nezingubo.
Iphini likamengameli we-Japan Textile Federation u-Kenichi Tomiyoshi uveza ukuthi imboni yendwangu iwumgogodla wenqubomgomo yase-Japan.
Umbono kahulumeni wase-Japan oyi-Circular Economy Vision 2020 ubeka izimboni ezinhlanu ezibalulekile, okuhlanganisa nezindwangu futhi umgomo wawo uwukuqinisa umkhakha wendwangu futhi andise zibe izimakethe ezintsha ngo-2040 ngenqubomgomo esekelwe ekukhuthazeni izimiso zayo zokuzinza.
I-Japan isivele inazo iziqinisekiso eziqinile uma kuziwa ekusetshenzisweni kabusha kwe-PET kodwa futhi izimisele ukuthuthukisa ukujikeleza ngaphakathi kwemboni yendwangu nezingubo. Ukwenza lokhu, ukuhlela imfucumfucu yezingubo kanye nokuhlukanisa izinto zokugaywa kabusha kwe-fiber-to-fibre.
Khonamanjalo, iShayina, okuyisizinda esikhulu kunazo zonke sokuthengwa kwezimpahla zezimpahla emhlabeni nayo izenzela eyayo indlela uma kuziwa emthethweni wokusimama.
U-Yan Yan, ongumqondisi weHhovisi Lokubophezeleka Komphakathi e-China National Textile and Apparel Council (CNTAC), uchaza i-China isivele inezinqubomgomo eziningi eziphathelene nokusimama.
Umgomo wakamuva wethulwa zingama-30 kuNtulikazi kulo nyaka futhi uwuhlelo olukabili lokulawula ukwenza ngcono ukukhishwa kwekhabhoni..
I-China nayo inenqubomgomo yamandla aluhlaza lapho u-Yan ephawula ukuthi okusekelwe ekuhloleni kwe-CNTAC cishe u-65% wekhabhoni embonini yezimpahla zezimpahla nendwangu yaseChina usuka ekusetshenzisweni kwamandla ngakho uthi ukwenza amandla abe “luhlaza” kubalulekile.
Inqubomgomo kazwelonke yokuqala yaseShayina yomnotho oyindilinga inezinjongo ezibalulekile lapho u-Yan ehlanganyela inhloso yayo ukuthi izinga lokugaywa kabusha lifinyelele ku-25% ngo-2025. Futhi inqubomgomo yezwe ku-ESG nokudalulwa kuyasuka ngokuzithandela kuya kokuphoqelekile.
Ubuye wengeza ngokuthi i-China ibisebenzisana nababambiqhaza abehlukene ukwethula izindlela zokuphayona ku-ESG kanye nokujikeleza, okuhlanganisa nekhithi yamathuluzi yokwakha amazinga angathathi hlangothi kulo lonke uchungechunge lokuhlinzeka.
U-Yan uyaqhubeka: “Sisungule ukudalulwa kwekhabhoni ezinkampanini. Siphinde sasebenza nemikhiqizo eminingi futhi sabona ukuthi sidinga imodeli engcono yokwenza udoti ogaywe kabusha ukhule kakhulu.”
Useqale nomsebenzi we-DPP njengoba omazisi bedijithali bazokwethulwa e-China ngonyaka ozayo okuzovumela imikhiqizo ukuthi ibonakale ngokugcwele futhi ibonise amandla ayo okugaywa kabusha.
Ngabe umhlaba ufuna ukuhambisana nomthethonqubo wokusimama?
U-Lamar wase-US unethemba lokuthi kuzoba namathuba okuthi i-US ihambisane ne-EU mayelana nokulawulwa kokusimama.
Uthi: “Kuyajabulisa ukubheka okwenziwa yi-Europe, China neJapan kodwa imboni idinga ukusebenzelana kangcono.”
Uyavuma ukuthi i-US ngalesi sikhathi ayihileli, kodwa ezingeni lomhlaba wonke, sidinga futhi "okungcono" ukuzibandakanya.
“Sidinga ubambiswano oluqinile lwabathengi nabaphakeli futhi sidinga ukwenza isiqiniseko sokuthi singathembela komunye nomunye futhi sithembane ukuze umsebenzi wenziwe,” usho kanje.
U-Tomiyoshi wase-Japan uyavuma futhi ubona ukumiswa njengokhiye. Uyachaza ukuthi iJapan ingathanda ukulinganisa ukulandeleka futhi iphinde idingide i-eco-design emikhiqizweni yendwangu, okufana nalokho okwethulwa e-EU.
Kubalulekile ukuqaphela ukuthi amazwe ashoyo ukuthi yini edingekayo ngokwemithetho yokusimama akuzona njalo ezikhiqiza izimpahla.
Ngasekuqaleni konyaka umongameli we-International Apparel Federation u-Cem Altan utshele i-Just Style ye-ESG umthetho we-ESG oqondiswe emkhakheni wezemfashini kumele usatshalaliswe ngendlela efanele kuwo wonke umkhakha wokuhlinzeka ngosizo ukuze ugweme ukwehluleka ngokuphelele.
U-Altan wabelane ngokuthi usemkhankasweni wokuxhumana nemikhiqizo nabathengisi futhi uphakamise izinhlelo ezihlanganyelwe ukubhekana nomthetho ozayo.
Umthombo ovela Isitayela Nje
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